Country Sampler Quilts

The Love Of Sewing Is Our Common Thread

If you’ve been following Country Sampler on social media, you probably know by now that Deb Cizek has retired and Country Sampler has a new owner. 

Hello, my name is Deb Cox and I am so excited to meet you! Country Sampler has a long history in Omaha and the first thing I want to assure you of, my valued customers, is that I will honor the essence of Country Sampler as you have always known and loved it! The same talented staff will still be here ready to share their knowledge and experience with you whether you are a beginner or a seasoned quilter yourself. The beautiful fabric lines from top designers and distributors that you expect will still be on our shelves and when you walk in the door, you will still be warmly greeted and made to feel at home!

Exciting things will be happening, though! I have ambitious plans for my “new” store and I hope that you check in often to see what’s going on. Wool lovers, needle workers, crafters…our lines will be expanding and I know there are a lot of you out there looking for supplies! Country Sampler will be getting a little tweaked and twisted but it will still be the store you love.

Our class schedule will be evolving as we add new products, too. Lots of new lines will be hitting the shelves soon including a Corey Yoder BOM beginning in early fall. Want a sneak peek? Keep following Country Sampler on social media for the first glimpse! That is where you will also get first looks at new seasonal displays, new products, ideas for displaying sewing collectibles and so much more!

I have dreamed of owning my own shop for many years and now I’ve hit the ground running. I can’t wait to see the smiling faces of our guests as we help them pull together gorgeous projects or introduce them to new experiences…that is what makes me excited to come to “work” every day at Country Sampler!

Stop in and say hello, won’t you?

See you soon,

Deb Cox

Country Sampler

11928 West Center Road

Omaha, Ne  68144

402-333-6131

All Good Things ....

In 1991, I started Country Sampler with a wing and a prayer; it's hard to believe that was over 28 years ago.  I was an elementary teacher for several years and with no retail experience (other that I'm a really good little buyer!), I jumped into it with both feet.   We worked hard (and I say "we" because it takes a village to be successful in retail), but you helped us to be successful.  But... like the old saying goes, "All good things must come to an end".  So I'd like to take this opportunity to let you know that as of a week ago, I have retired.  The good news is that I have sold Country Sampler and I'm sure it will go on and have many great and productive years ahead.

First of all, I want to thank the staff that I have worked with - present and past.  I have been fortunate to be surrounded by wonderfully talented women and they have made Country Sampler what it is today.  I wish I could give each and every one of you a hug and a thank you.  The hardest part of this new chapter is that I will miss seeing these women every day.  

Secondly, I want to thank all of the friends and customers that have walked through those doors.  I can honestly say that I have never dreaded going to work each day because of your smiling faces.  I will miss you too - you have been a great part of MY life.  So much history and so many people that I will always cherish.  

But the time has come to pass Country Sampler on to a new caretaker.  I have sold the shop to Deb Cox (along with her wonderful husband) and I couldn't be happier with Deb taking over the reins.  She has worked the floor at the shop, as well as being the manager; and I know she is someone who will take care of my baby and do great things along the way.  Deb is smart and full of enthusiasm for the future and that's over half the battle.  The staff remains the same and the Sampler will continue to do business as usual.  

As for me, I'm in Arizona for awhile, but I'm anxious to get back to Omaha so I can so a little shopping at the new and improved shop!  I've hauled several projects here, stuff that I never got around to making when I was working, so now I finally have a chance to actually sit down and sew.  Big sigh.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and thank you for the love and friendship that you've given me over these many years. You have been the best part of my 28 years and I thank you.  

 

Deb Cizek

 

 

Phone Orders, Web Orders, Curb Service and Shipping Options

We have some good news in this time of uncertainty. 
Country Sampler has created a plan for our customers to get the products they need during this period of social distancing.
We will have someone on staff at the shop from Monday to Friday, from 10:00am to 3:00pm, taking phone calls, shipping out orders, and cutting kits. WE WILL NOT BE OPEN FOR WALK IN BUSINESS, but if you call us and request an item, we can either ship it to you or we will provide curb service to your car.
We are taking orders by phone, 402-333-6131, online at www.countrysampleronline.com, or by email, [email protected]. We have already shipped a few items out this week, so hopefully this will help us and our customers with their needs.

Next week, we're hoping to have pictures and prices for several brand new, never be seen before quilts and their kits; for those who a running out of projects. We will let you know when they are ready.

In addition to Country Samplers news, we would like to announce that Moda has made a very heartfelt gesture during this difficult time. Moda is offering a free download of their popular pattern Village to remind us that despite our 6 ft of separation, we are all in this together, and we need to do our best to help out our neighbors. As the saying goes... “it takes a Village”. 

Stay safe and keep sewing. 

Masks for UNMC Pharmacy

Hello! Most of you have probably already heard about the need for making hospital masks. Last week a wonderful woman, named Linda Kroeger, got a hold of me and asked if Country Sampler would help make masks for the pharmacists at UNMC. Her daughter, Heidi, is a pharmacist there. She explained that they want to save the N95 compliant masks for the more critical areas of the hospital, but feel the need for masks in the pharmacy and a few other areas of the hospital. Of course I said YES!

Country Sampler has the BEST customers EVER, so please think about helping the staff at UNMC!! The great part is that you can use your scraps! (I'm not even going to try to sell you fabric kits when you've told all of us at the shop how much fabric you have at home.) :)

Here is a pattern that the UNMC committee has recommended:Craft Passion Face Mask Sewing Pattern. They don't need a pocket.

There has been some conflicting information about whether or not masks are still needed. We have been seeing posts where ladies think that UNMC no longer needs them. Not true. The pharmacy does. The initial feed back from the users... the elastic hurt their ears by the end of the shift. They would welcome the use of ties. That would solve the problem of elastic shortage! We would still greatly appreciate helping them reach their goal of 200.  Thee need is great all over the country.  

We plan on having a donation drop off point at Country Sampler, starting on Wednesday. We'll have a small container outside of the shop (for now) and you can bag up your masks and drop them in there. We'll pick up every evening and distribute them to UMNC as they come in. Linda will start picking up at the Sampler on Wednesday evening, so let's surprise her with LOTS of masks! We're all in this together!

Any questions, please email me at [email protected] - quilters are generous people, let's see if we can help them out!

Deb

Everything Fabric Collage

This blog post is dedicated to one of Country Sampler’s very popular classes taught by Linda.  The class is Fabric Collage! We have scheduled one or two classes a month since September of last year and it remains quite popular. I actually took it twice, I love our classroom environment and having Linda around to assist was a huge help. If you would like to check out the new class schedule and dates and times for a collage class, Check out our new Fall 2019 class schedule here. For those of you who do not know, fabric collage is a technique recently made popular by Laura Heine of Fiberworks, however Collage Art and Fabric Collage itself has been around for quite some time.

Below is my version of Laura Heine's Mini Pin Cushion Pattern. This picture was taken mid design, but it gives you an idea of all the things you can do with fabric collage. It is currently in the process of being quilted! Laura has lots of different patterns to choose from and Country Sampler carries them, if by some chance she has a pattern you are interested in but it is not in our store, we would be happy to order it for you!

What is Collage Art? Coined by cubist artists Braque and Picasso, the term “collage” comes from the French word coller, or “to glue.”  Collages can be created from a range of materials, though most are made of paper or wood and often feature cut-and-pasted photographs, painted forms, or even 3-dimensional objects.

In our case the medium is Fabric! In every class each quilter uses fusible and all sorts of different styles/prints of fabric to create their own unique collage. Every student becomes an artist in this enjoyable and entertaining one day class.

Designs range from very realistic to extremely abstract depending on the artist! Laura Heine has created many collage patterns to choose from!  The collage world is yours to explore! However, if you would like a little bit of guidance, Linda is here to help.

Here are my two cents and Linda’s important tips and tidbits she would like to share, especially with those interested in taking this very interesting, fun, and addictive class.

Take it away Linda!

Vocabulary. Vocabulary is tricky, many of Laura Heine’s patterns have directions that vary from one to another.  For example: underlay is a term introduced in the Emerson Puppy Collage pattern. An underlay is a background fabric that you cover a section of your collage with as a base before designing fussy cut items on top of it.  Make sure to read your pattern entirely before you begin, and pay close attention to the terminology used to avoid confusion.

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Fusible:

 The best fusible to use for collage projects is Steam-A-Seam II. Not lite, just regular Steam-A-Seam II. The fusible is your most expensive part of the project, so conserve on your Steam-A-Seam II whenever possible.

Fabrics:

Fabric selection should include a variety of print sizes and an assortment of fabric color designs.  You will need large prints, medium size designs, as well as small.  The fabric you collect should have a theme that fits your pattern. For example the Pincushion or Mini Pincushion collages have sewing themed fabrics. If your collage is a bird perhaps you would like to collect feather fabrics. Laura Heine likes to use flower motifs, however you are not limited to any style of fabric in your collage.

How much of each fabric do you need? A good guideline is a 6” x 12” piece,  a fat eighth at the most. You will find you use lots of different fabrics in this project, so having a little bit of a lot of things gives you options. Having rectangular or square pieces also makes your fusing process easier, however any size or scrap of fabric can be useful, so don’t rule out pieces just because they are small.

Preparing your unfused fabric:

Cut your fabric pieces to the size you’re most likely to use and adding about ¼” to ½” more all around the piece. This is the best way to save on fabric and fusible.

Peel back the solid layer of paper on the roll of Steam-A-Seam and place your fabric right side up on this tacky side. One side of the steam a seam has a grid, one side is solid.  Place several fabric pieces on the width of the Steam-A-Seam II at a time.  Your fabric should not overlap, but be placed as close as possible to one another.  If the Steam-A-Seam II shows at all between fabrics it will stick to your pressing mat and your iron. If this is the case cut out the larger pieces of fusible prior to fusing them so you don’t have to worry about fusible sticking to your iron or pressing cloth. Now you are ready to fuse!

Fusing the fabric:

First and foremost, this project requires a pressing mat. Often when working with fusible you can get away with an old bed sheet or just the backing on the fusible. With fabric collage that is not the case. A good pressing mat is an essential tool to this project. Our favorite is the Bear Thread Applique Pressing Mat. The size of the pressing cloth does not matter because the bottom of your iron determines how much you can press at a time.

I also use an old sheet over my ironing cover to protect it.  If you are not paying close attention you can accidentally transfer some of sticky residue to your iron or ironing board, so covering your board up keeps it safe.

Temperature is important, use a very hot iron and no steam when fusing fabrics onto Steam-A-Seam II. Iron your fabric onto the steam-A-Seam II for 6 to 10 seconds every press to ensure that the fabric is fused. This process must be repeated for all of your collage fabric. If the iron you are using is not quite hot enough you will need 10 seconds for fabric to adhere to the Steam-A-Seam II before moving iron to another area of the fabric.

Clean pressing mat after each pressing to prevent transfer of Steam-A-Seam glue to right side of your fabric. To do this, allow the pressing mat to cool off, then rub sticky residue off with fingers or an eraser. The residue adheres to itself and can be thrown away or it can be picked up and discarded with a sticky lint roller.

Fussy Cutting:

Now that all of your fabric is fused, you are ready to fussy cut. When it comes to collage there seem to be two types of people: Those who fuse and fussy cut everything before they begin, and those who fuse and fussy cut during the design process.

For your first collage project I suggest that before you start to design, you take time to fussy cut flowers, vines, and other small items you would like to incorporate. Trying to complete this job during the designing process can create frustrations and uses up valuable class time.  It will seem like you are getting nowhere fast. If you are new to this technique it is difficult to know what you want to use where, without it being cut and ready to go. Having all your pieces cut prior to class will allow you to audition different fabric pieces, get opinions from other classmates, and utilize the teacher’s knowledge. I sit in front of the TV and fussy cut all my fabric prior to beginning to design.  I am in no hurry and I like to fussy cut with great detail.  It adds dimension and character to my designs.

When it comes to scissors I recommend micro serrated blade scissors with comfortable handles.  I have used both of Karen Kay Buckley’s 4” and 6” Perfect Scissors.  I like the 4” scissors for fussy cutting lots of detail in small areas and the 6” scissors for cutting in larger areas. Elan is another brand used by some of the ladies who have attended the class.  There are other brands out there, however If you buy another brand, just make sure it has a micro serrated blade.  The micro serrated blade gives a nice clean cut and helps to keep the fabric from fraying around the outside of your fabric pieces.  

When cutting out shapes allow for an extra ¼” to ½” for overlap or use underlays.  Certain pieces will show in their entirely and some will be partially covered. Once you have decided what pieces will be on the top or outside of the collage, cut those sides exactly.  Pieces to be used on the bottom or inside of the collage that will be overlapped should be larger.  Your pieces may have one side trimmed exactly and another with extra room for overlapping.

Clean up:

Fusible material may build up on your cutting tool, clean scissors with alcohol swabs when they get sticky.

Clean a hot iron by ironing over a dryer sheet. Another option is to use an SOS pad or steel wool to clean off fusible while the iron is a somewhat hot (only if your iron does not have a non-stick coated bottom, using a scrubbing tool on this type of iron will damage the non-stick surface).

Background:

There are several different approaches to background fabric depending on the pattern you choose. In some patterns the background is several cuts of fabric pieced together. An example is Cora, the Common Owl.

 In other patterns the entire background made up of several fused fabrics that blend together to add interest.

Since you are the designer, you can also use one fabric as your background. I have used this method with Emmerson, the Dog and some of the mini collage patterns. 

An ombre fabric would be interesting to use as a background for your project as well. Nevertheless, saying that, I like lots of textured fabric to use as a solid background.

As the designer, you can decide which technique you would like regardless of the pattern recommendation.

In all of Laura’s patterns there is a base on which you create the primary collage design. I use Pattern Ease, however some of her earlier patterns call for voile as the base of the collage.  I think the Pattern Ease is light weight and is easier to use.  It will not stretch on you during use which is not always the case with voile.  All Laura’s more recent patterns are designed on Pattern Ease, even those that will be transferred to a background.

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Design:

One of the more difficult decisions is where to begin your collage.  Underlays provide a jumping off point.  It is an advantage to use underlays because, it helps to cover all parts of your collage and give you a base to build on. Without an underlay it is easy to unintentionally create holes or to stack too many layers of fabric. As a general guide you do not want more than three layers on your collage. More than three layers makes the collage stiff and difficult to quilt causing broken needles and skipped stitches. Your favorite long arm quilter will not be happy with you.

When you start the designing process, remove the graph paper side of your fused fabric so the Steam-A-Seam II can stick to your background or Pattern Ease.  The design pieces adhere to your collage surface and make it easier to continue the design process and make decision on what you do or do not like.  Most beginners leave the paper on and lay their pieces out.  In the beginning it can be a little scary to remove the backing and start placing pieces. The problem with this approach is that it will be necessary to move all of the pieces to get to the inside/bottom layer. Once the paper on the bottom layer is removed and it is placed on your collage it is pretty difficult to get the pieces back in the exact place you originally wanted them.  The good news is the Steam-A-Seam II will continue to adhere to your work surface after moving them around many, many times. Moving pieces around and trying new motifs is part of the process and allows you to be more creative.  Don’t be afraid to remove the backing paper from the start!

Transferring recommendations:

Once you have competed the main portion of your collage on the pattern ease it is time to transfer it to your background of choice. This step is only necessary for the pieced background or the use of one fabric for your background. I recommend peeling the edge of the collaged pieces away from the Pattern Ease and trimming the Pattern Ease away about ¼” to ½” from around the outside edge. Do not cut your fabric in the process.

After the collage is transferred, you can continue to add more embellishments such as fabric, buttons, crystals, etc. You are only limited by your imagination. An example would be adding flowers, vines, leaves to the tree and to the ground space under the tree branches under Cora, the Common Owl. I also added a butterfly. Add these before the collage is quilted.

 

Another example is the mini dress pattern. I want to add crystals or rhinestone buttons to the vest of her dress. I can only add those after she is quilted.

So far, I have had my collages projects quilted on a long arm using a micro meander stitch or a small meander/flower motif. I have had some of the collages custom quilted to show examples of different quilting techniques. Someday I might even try to quilt one using my sewing machine, but at the present it is too time intensive a commitment to do it correctly. Here are a couple of examples of how Laurie Heine quilts her projects. The small close proximity lines allow her to stitch down all the individual pieces of fused fabric.

 

This is a very addictive hobby and oh so fun!!  I have completed several different collages as I continue to teach classes.  I always like to have one to demonstrate on and samples to show in class using different techniques. Country Sampler has just updated their Fall and Winter Classes so if you are interested be sure to check out our new class schedule! Join us for a fun filled experience.

Linda and Molly

 

Part Two: Ruling Your Cutting Station with Quilters Select

As promised, here is part two of our segment on rulers and the new brand, Quilters Select.

Quilters Select Rulers were designed specifically with quilters in mind.

All edges are marked in one inch increments, from left to right and right to left (or top to bottom and bottom to top, depending on how you’re viewing it). This means you are not having to rotate your ruler constantly to get the correct edge and you aren’t trying to count backwards or do math in your head while cutting. 

This quality has appealed to left handed quilters. With the numbers running both ways they have found that their view of the ruler and the fabric is less obstructed. I am not left handed so until I started comparing rulers, this problem did not occur to me. 

There are 1/8th an inch markings across the edge and body of the ruler, and it also includes 30, 45, and 60 degree angle lines to assist with the variety of cuts you will need to make.

All of the Quilters Select rulers also have a yellow tint which is supposed to enhance viewing of most colors in fabric. This may sound a little hinky, but yellow tinted glasses and contacts have been found to increase clarity, reduce glare, decrease eye strain/fatigue and enhance contrast. All of these attributes help the wearer to see things more clearly. This technology has been used on the athletic field, for people who spend significant time using a computer, and even for driving purposes. Whether or not these benefits actually assist when cutting fabric is for you to help decide!

 

Another positive quilters have noted in reviews of these rulers is they do not reflect back glare to the extent of other rulers. 

Now, for the biggest differentiating factor- A non-slip surface coating covering the entire backing of the ruler.  The backside is ‘frosted’ for lack of a better word and it almost feels sticky or tacky. Very smooth, but super grippy.

Since the entire surface has the non-slip coating, these rulers stay where you put them! Quilters who have tried these rave about their staying ability. No slips or slides while doing large cuts or trimming.  Less pressure to get the ruler to stay puts which is a big bonus for users who do not have the strength to apply a lot of pressure.

 

 

Age and injury can make application of significant pressure difficult. However, let’s be honest, along the length of a 24 inch ruler, it is hard to apply enough force to prevent either the front or the back end from slipping. Quilters Select rulers however, stay firmly in place. The only negative that has been noted in our shop, is that when cutting very small pieces, the ruler grips so well that it is difficult to shift it in small increments. By very small pieces, we are talking 1 inch squares. In these instances several employees found when you are cutting very small pieces and you only need to shift the ruler a couple of thread widths, the non-slip back prevents you from shifting the ruler. 

So far my  8 ½' x 24' ruler has been used to trim batting and backing from a recently quilted project, cut binding strips, and cut width of fabric strips (WOF) for my current shop sample.  I have found that when cutting WOF, the Quilters Select ruler performs better than my trusted Creative Grid.  No matter how I try to evenly apply pressure to the length of the Creative Grid, I often get some sliding and even rotation as my rotary cutter contacts the area of the ruler farthest from my hand. This was not a problem when I used the Quilters Select version.

As I continued to research Quilters Select and spoke with other employees at the shop, it become clear to me that I needed to cut with a smaller sized QS ruler. Cutting WOF strips and smaller sub cuts are quite different from each other. So I marched myself into Country Sampler and purchased an 8 ½’  by 8 ½’ square on Linda’s recommendation. I did not have a ruler this size in my tool department and this is the one she finds she uses most often. 

Once I got home and headed to my quilt room, I put it to immediate use.  The current shop model on which I am working is composed of primarily 4 ½’  in blocks, most of which are Quarter Square Triangles, or Split Quarter Square Triangles.

 

 

A is an hourglass, or bow tie

B is a Quarter Square Triangle

C is a Split Quarter Square Triangle

Quarter Square Triangles were a new technique for me and once you understand the technique they are not difficult to sew, but trimming them takes attention to detail and a handy ruler. Using my new Quilters Select ruler I made a set of blocks. Everything went really well, nothing slipped and I did not find that that small adjustments with the ruler were difficult. (However, I did not have the need to measure and cut one inch squares). My only difficulties came when I was ready to trim my blocks down to their final size, 4 ½’ inches square.  The idea is to align your stitches with the 45’ angle, placing the center point at the 2 ¼’ inch mark. This results in an evenly divided 4 ½’ inch square. No problem, right?

Unless your ruler does not have 2 ¼’ in marker along the 45’ angle line! Initially, I was confused and struggled with where things should be aligned on the new QS ruler.  This is partly because I am used to Creative Grids, however then I realized there were no ½’ in markings on the Quilters Select 8 ½’ inch square!

 

 

There are two sides that have the extra half inch, and two sides that have the full inch marked, but no half inch labels anywhere on the ruler.  This is not the case with the 8 ½’  x 24 inch ruler, which has ½’ inch markings. 

 My block is already trimmed to 4 ½’  inches, and measuring from the ½’  inch edge (right side) to the center it aligns with the yellow 4 marker, while the black 4 marker would only be a 4’ inch block. However if you are measuring from the full inch side of the ruler (left side) the yellow 4 marker is actually 4’ inches and the black 4 marker is 4 ½’ inches.   Are you confused yet? I sure was!

I actually had to use my Creative Grid to trim the first square, then placed the trimmed square under the Quilter Select Ruler to determine how they would need to be aligned. 

 

 

As you can see, the Creative Grid has a white dashed line that intersects with the 45’ angle line at the ¼’, ½’ , and ¾’  marker in every square of the ruler. 

In the case of the Quilters Select ruler, the 2 ¼’ in center is a bit harder to locate! The ½’ lines are very clear, but there is a little guessing when it comes to ¼’ and ¾’ in delineation.  

 

 

Now, I would never have discovered this issue without working on this project at this time and it may never be a problem again! However, it was super confusing and hard to locate where the block should be aligned on the Quilters Select Ruler. I ended up trimming all of my blocks with the Creative Grid. 

Part of my confusion is just a result of being used to the Creative Grids organization and labeling system.  There is always some adjustment when using a new ruler. Anyone who has used an Omnigrid regularly, then a Creative Grid, has to adjust to the additional 1/2 inch on two sides, and vice versa. The same will be true for me going from a Creative Grid, to a Quilters Select. I think the more I measure and cut with this ruler, the easier it will be, but in the beginning it is going to require a little more brain power. 

I must say that I like the additional 1/2’ inch markers on the 8 1/2’ x 24’ inch ruler, so I am disappointed that the 8 1/2’ inch square does not have them. However, the 8 1/2’ x 24’ inch ruler is the ONLY Quilters Select ruler that has 1/2’ inch markers, so it is the exception, not the rule. It just happened to be the Quilters Select Ruler I used, so I didn’t realize there was a difference. It does beg the question, why is it the only one!? I decided to email the company to ask, unfortunately it has been over a week and they have not gotten back to me. If I ever find an answer to this question, I promise I will get back to you!

We have a Quilters Select Ruler that we use in the shop every day. We are usually cutting width of fabric strips, which means the length of the ruler is in contact with the entire width of fabric most of time. Some of the staff love it, and feel that they have less issues with slippage and cleaner cuts. They intentionally choose this ruler over others. 

On the flip side of that, because it grips so well, others feel adjusting the ruler in small increments on top of the fabric is a little tougher. 

The ruler in the shop is in use often, much more so than if you purchased one and took one home with you. As a result of the increased use, some of the non-slip surface on the back has started to come off around the edges.  As the non-slip has rubbed off, so have some of the marking closer to the edge. 

 

 

Thus far it does not appear to have altered its effectiveness, but it is worth noting.  The packaging on the ruler does make an important point that the non-slip backing is sensitive to ‘unnecessary friction, especially with rough surfaces’. 

Also, to reinforce previous sentiment, it takes a lot of use to get to this point, and all the tools that go to work in our shop end with lots of wear and tear.

 

 

We want to also quickly mention that Quilter’s Select Rulers are 1/4th of a  4 part System- The ruler, the rotary cutter, the mat, and the ’trick’. We will briefly discuss the other parts of their system, however these rulers do not need to be used exclusively with their other products.  Their products were designed to complement each other, which we can appreciate, but can also be used separately.

Quilters’ Select Mats are fairly heavy duty, it almost feels as if two mats are attached back to back! The extra thickness means a little bit of give and a nice clean cut. The heavier nature of the mat is also claimed to make it warp resistant! 

 

 

They are considered self-healing mats, just like comparable mats currently on the market. Unlike other mats on the market, their mats are just as accurate as their rulers. 

One of the things I learned the hard way when I was a new quilter was you always cut by your RULER, and never by your mat. In general, the mat is less accurate. It can be used for reference points, but should not be used as a cutting guide.  With Quilters Select mats this is not the case, you can lay your ruler on top of the mat and all of your cutting guides will align perfectly. 

 

Increments are labeled similarly to rulers with numbers going in both directions along the edge.

Setting their mat aside from others is the fact that they are reversible with a light gray side and a dark gray/black side. Which side you use is dependent on the color of fabric you are cutting.  Lighter fabrics get cut on the dark side and dark fabrics get cut on the light side, thus increasing visibility! 

 

I currently have Olfa mats, and these are the mats that are on most surfaces at the shop.  Olfa self-healing mats have been a staple for quilters, but I will say cutting green fabric on a green cutting mat can be difficult. Having the option to flip your mat when you have difficulty viewing means more accurate cuts and less accidents. If you are like me, we spend our hard earned pennies on quality quilt fabric, and we don’t like to make ‘boo boos’ that waste it. 

 

 

The added bonus of the mat being reversible is that wear and tear on both surfaces is decreased, increasing the lifetime of the mat. 

The mats come in three sizes, 12”x 18”, 18” x 24” and 24”x 36”.  Currently, Country Sampler only has the large size in shop, however that can be easily remedied if you are interested in one of the smaller options. We are happy to order whatever size ruler or mat fits your needs.

On to the rotary cutter! Quilters Select Rotary cutters are a little unique. For one, they are weighted. Now, having to move a weighted rotary cutter may seem like extra work, however the additional heft means you have to apply less pressure when making cuts. As a result, you actually do less work!

 

Both sides of the cutter have rubber grips to avoid slippage, and the guard can be shifted both ways so right or left handed it is easy to use.
Their is also a magnet that hold the rotary blade onto the cutter. This means when you disassemble your rotary cutting to change the blade, everything comes off in one ordered piece. We have all experienced a time when we went to change the blade and did not pay quite enough attention while we were taking things apart. 

This makes the back end of the process a little more difficult. What order did the pieces go back on?  Which way does the spring washer face? Which side of the screw faces in or out?
Well, Quilters Select has solved those problems!

I have not had a chance to use one of these yet, So if you have- give us a comment on what you experienced. 

Now, onto the ‘trick’. The beauty of these rulers is that when used in conjunction with the mat, they grip so well that you have ability to rotate the ruler and the fabric together on top of the mat. The result is that you are not trying to cut across your body, or walking around the end of your cutting station in an effort to keep your fabric aligned.

The trick is easier shown in a video, than described in words, so below is the link to watch the Quilters Select Cutting System Video. 

https://youtu.be/sVPWP9UgRzw

Linda and Virginia, our Beginning Quilting teachers, really like these rulers for new quilters. They have found that the students who use them have less accidental cuts due to ruler slip and as a result less frustration. However it is not just new quilters who have benefited from them, several veterans have converted! My research has found nothing but positive reviews. The only complaint is difficulty finding them in local quilt shops, and Country Sampler has solved that problem for you! We welcome you to come into the shop and try out a Quilters Select ruler for yourself. The shop ruler is available for test cutting at the front counter! 

They come in a variety of sizes, however because they have not been around as long as Creative Grids, they do not have as many size options. Listed in the photo below are the currently available options. For a full list of up to date sizes, and to watch more videos, check out the Quilters Select website!

Quiltersselect.com

For those of you who have purchased and used Quilters Select products, give us your feedback. We would love to hear what you have to say! As for me,  I am signing off! Happy cutting and may your ruler never slip. 

 

Molly R-D

Ruling Your Cutting Station and the New Brand on the Scene

Hello fellow quilters,

Today we are going to talk about rulers! We have some great info for you and a ruler announcement to share.

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Having several trusty rulers in a variety of sizes is essential for every quilter. The hardest part is trying to decide what brand and what sizes are the most helpful and useful.

As a young quilter I did not have any ruler knowledge when I decided I wanted to learn to quilt. I decided in the store what size to buy without any research, without consideration for the markings, and without any grip on the back. Granted, ruler technology was not as advanced then and there were not a lot of anti-slip options, but as a new quilter, I was making a big mistake. Live and learn!

The rulers of today are a whole different story.

First of all, let’s talk about what size rulers are handy to have around.  As a general rule, you need to be able to cut strips from a width of fabric (WOF). This means you need one ruler that is at least 24’ inches allowing you to cut strips from yardage, make binding, square up, and trim batting or backing from quilts.

You also need to be able to sub-cut your larger strips into the smaller cuts which will eventually get pieced together to form your quilt. Having a smaller ruler for this job will make your life much easier. A 24’ inch ruler gets in the way and can be cumbersome when you are dealing with 4’ inch squares.

Now, when you first begin quilting it is a bit of an investment, and there are lots of new tools to purchase. So if only one ruler fits in your budget, a 6 ½ ‘x 24 ½’ ruler will work for everything you need to do. The long 24’ inch length will allow you to make WOF fabric cuts and accomplish the larger trimming, while the short 6’ inch side can be used for smaller pieces and squaring up blocks. You will however, have some hassle as you try to rotate the ruler to cut small pieces and trim blocks. You also need significantly more room on your cutting space to accommodate the large ruler in all directions. For most of us, things have a tendency to accumulate in our cutting area (tools, scraps, thread, patterns… you know who you are), so maintaining a large space is not as easy as it sounds.

If you can afford to buy one larger ruler and one smaller ruler, do it, you will not regret it. This is one of those areas where spending a little more will significantly decrease your frustration and make all your cutting easier.

In our beginning quilting class we suggest a 6 ½’ x 24 ½’ ruler and a 9 ½’ square ruler. The project for this class involves 9 ½’ blocks, so this ruler is perfect for the class. It can also be used to square up or trim any block smaller than the ruler, and is not so large that it causes a problem when cutting smaller pieces.

My original purchase was 6 ½’ inch x 12 ½’ ruler. To this day, my 6 ½’ inch x 12 ½’ ruler is one of two rulers that get the most use. Originally I used this for my larger cuts too, because it was the only ruler I owned, but it was not efficient and much less effective than a longer ruler.  I quickly realized I needed a ruler that could cut a width of fabric (WOF). So after struggling along for some time, finally- older, wiser, and no longer a broke college student, I decided to replace my original ‘JoAnn Fabrics special’ with a Creative Grid. This was the ruler brand carried by my local quilt shop and my first experience with a good quilting ruler.

 My next purchase was an 8 ½’ inch by 24 ½ ’ inch Creative Grid.  The combination of these two sizes was perfect for me. It provided a 6 ½ ’, 8 ½ ’, 12 ½’ and 24 ½’ inch lengths, and in most cases gave me a length of ruler to fit every job without being oversized or bulky.

Now, different combos work for different quilters, and different brands have small variances in their ruler size, but the important part is to find one ruler big enough for width of fabric and one smaller ruler for sub cutting and piecing.

As you take on different projects and expand your skill set you can add additional sized rulers to your tool set. For example, our one block wonder class uses a 60 degree ruler, or you may find that squaring larger blocks with the 24’ inch length is difficult, so a 10 ½ ’ or 12 ½ ’ square could be in your future. Blocks run the range of 3’ inches finished to 18’ inches finished, and sometimes having the ruler perfectly sized to square your block can make a project ten times easier.

In addition to ruler size, there are several other points to consider. For a long time Creative Grids and Omnigrid have been popular standards in the ruler department.  As we discuss important properties, we will compare these two major brands. When it comes to brand, it seems that many quilters are partial to the one they used when they first began to quilt.
 

Factor number one: Markings

Creative Grids rulers are labeled with a combination of black and white markings.  Black numbers printed on white dots label the one inch increments and white numbers on black dots label the half inch increments.

Two sides of the ruler also include a ¼’ dashed line marking for trimming seam allowances.
In addition, all of the square and rectangle rulers have white centering lines horizontally and vertically delineating the mid line of the ruler. These are handy for squaring up, trimming, and fussy cutting.
Many of the rulers include markings for the most popular angles: 30°, 45° and 60°.  

The 45° angles on the rectangle rulers cross on the ¼” line. These markings are super handy to trim ¼” away from the points of flying geese units or blocks set on point.

The 45° angle that begins at each corner to square up half-square triangles, or use as a tool for other types of piecing.

For those of you who are technologically inclined, Creative Grids also have a QR code which you can scan in order to watch a video demonstration of that specific ruler. However, a quick you tube search will provide you with the same tutorial!

 

Omnigrid Standard Rulers have a combination of black and yellow markings to delineate their measurements. These are known as their patented double-sight lines that show up on light and dark fabrics. Black markings show up on lighter fabrics and the yellow markings show up on darker fabrics.

Their rulers claim a left- and right-hand numbering and angle system with numbers running both left and right across the top and bottom of their rulers.  I will note, they did not run up and down both directions. Now,  I am right handed, so until I started comparing rulers for this blog, it never occurred to me that the standard structure of some rulers means left handed quilters are cutting while looking at upside down numbers! Not fair!

Most Omni Grids also have multiple degree angle lines for easy pivot of 30’, 45’and 60’ cuts. The only negatives I noticed about the angles on SOME of the Omnigrid is that they do not bisect a corner, and there is not a space where  45’ angles cross an edge and flying geese can be easily trimmed. Disclaimer: I do not use an Omnigrid on a regular basis, so if there is a trick that I don’t know about, share it in the comments!

When it comes to markings, just like sizes, you need to find the one that works for you. Omnigrid users love the yellow markings and feel they help get cleaner more accurate cuts, but someone who is used to a Creative Grid may find the yellow distracting.

The next consideration: the ½ ‘.

Omnigrid rulers generally come with full inch measurements from every side of the ruler. Now, obviously they have some squares that come in ½ inch sizes, including the 6 ½’ x 6 ½’, and 12 ½’ x 12 ½’, but when it comes to their standards the breakdown looks like this:

6’ x 12’

4’ x 14’

3’ x 18’

6’ x 24’

You get the point.  Most Omnigrid users like the consistency of always knowing the first major marking from the edge will be 1 inch away.  To view all the Omnigrid size options and products, here is their website:

www.omnigrid.com/

Creative Grids are a different story. They have what they call a ‘turn around’ feature. Creative Grids rulers have two edges that are labeled with black numbers printed on white dots in one inch increments and two sides that are labeled with white numbers on black dots that are half inch increments.

This means whether you are cutting whole inches, or in need of ½’, you have an edge and markings that make it easy to cut. Lot of quilters love this! However, if you aren’t used having a half inch side, it can result in a mis-cut.  It also means that Creative Grids have a tendency to run on the ½’ inch mark, not the whole, breaking down something like this:

6 ½’ x 12 ½’

4 ½’ x 12 ½’

8 ½’ x 12 ½’

8 ½’ x 24 ½’

Now, again, this does not they don’t carry a 6’ x 6’ square, or other rulers that fall on the whole inch mark. It is however something you need to be aware of when making a ruler purchase, or cutting with a ruler that may be new to you.  To view all of the Creative Grid size and specialty options, here is their products page:

www.creativegridsusa.com/

Personally, I love the option of cutting by the half inch or the whole inch, I just rotate the ruler to the side needed for the current cut. However, several of the other shop employees prefer the whole inch measurements of the Omnigrid, and do not like cutting with the Creative Grids at the shop.

The last and often most important consideration: anti-slip grip

Creative Grids has been Country Samplers go-to brand for quite some time. Designed by Quilters, Creative Grids have embedded grip on the back of each ruler, allowing the ruler to slide over fabric when necessary, and with the application of pressure hold everything snugly in place. 

There is ½’ of grip around the edge on two adjoining sides, and ¼’ of grip around the edge of the other two. There are also grip circles placed strategically around the ruler. 

Omnigrids have several different option when it comes to anti-slip grip.

The first is Invisigrip. Omnigrid  InvisiGrip is a clear, non-slip material that is applied to quilting rulers and templates to prevent slipping while rotary cutting; InvisiGrip™ is invisible when applied for clear viewing; it can be removed without leaving a residue. It clings to the back of smooth surface rulers like a window decal. It makes any ruler non-slip and helps beginners who are just learning how to handle rulers; it can also be applied to the back of cutting mats to prevent the mat from slipping on a tabletop.

It comes in 12 ½’ x 1 yard roll and can be cut to fit any size ruler. It can even be used on a non-Omnigrid ruler as long as it has a smooth surface on the back. The down side, since this product functions via static cling, it cannot be used on a ruler that already has any texture or grip on the back.  It also means, you are having to purchase another product in addition to the ruler.

As ruler technology advanced Omnigrid came up with a secondary non-slip option known as the OmniGRIP ruler, it has a patented non-slip backing to hold ruler in place during cutting.

The new version still has all the properties you love in an Omnigrid, but it also has built in grip. The only negative is Omnigrips have a much brighter green color that delineates them from the standard ruler. The grip is built into the almost neon green markings. Although I am sure some quilters have no problem with the bright green color, others are not happy with it, so much so that they did not upgrade when the new non-slip option came out.

Now, there is another non-slip option that can be added to a ruler to help provide stability and deserves an honorable mention. True Grips are non- slip, silicone adhesive rings that can be applied to the back of any ruler. They are clear so you can see your fabric and ruler through the grips. They are also scratch free so they won't scratch or damage cutting mats or fabric.

 

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These are a good solutions for older rulers without any grip, like my original quilt ruler. They are also my temporary solution if you are having problems with your ruler sliding, but aren’t ready upgrade to a better version. The only down side to these little guys is that eventually the adhesive wears out, or separates from the silicone grip. 

 

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Quilting rulers can be found in all shapes and sizes, including specialty rulers and rulers creating for specific quilt patterns.  There are basics that are necessary, assets to make specific tasks easier, and some that are just fun!!! Country Sampler has all of the standard size Creative Grids, and many of their specialty rulers. We try to carry the most popular sizes and a variety of specialty rulers, however it is impossible to keep them all in the store. If you have a ruler that you are interested in, but isn’t carried regularly in the shop, we would be happy to order it for you. Just let us know!

What sizes work for you? What do you love about your ruler? Is there anything we missed that people need to know? Tell us about it in the comments!

Last but not least.

What is the big ruler announcement?!?!  Well, there is a NEW RULER BRAND on the scene.  It is called…… (Drumroll please)……. Quilters Select.  

In the second half of this blog, we are going to discuss the new Quilters Select rulers, and why long time quilters love this new brand! Stay tuned and in the meantime, happy stitching!

 

Molly R-D

To press or not to press.......on a wool pressing mat?

Hello Ladies and Gents, 

     Todays blog topic is Wool Pressing Mats. I do not currently own a wool pressing mat, but I have heard lots of good things about them and seen people bring them to classes at the shop.  As you may or may not have noticed, I liked to do lots of research and find as much information as possible before I make a decision. It does not matter if I am buying a car, or a wool pressing mat. Since Country Sampler recently started carrying them, I decided it was time to do some hunting and see what all the talk was about. After reading lots of reviews, a couple blogs, watching some you tube videos and polling the shop, here is what I learned. 

 

 

 

 

So first of all, your wool pressing mat needs to be 100% natural wool. Anything including man made fibers is no good, as it will scorch under high heat. Wool is very unique in the way that it absorbs and holds heat. This is why it was used for sweaters and inside quilts, to keep you toasty warm. It is naturally fire resistant. Being 100% wool makes a pressing mat a little spendy, so if you see a ‘good deal’ make sure it isn’t too good to be true. The label needs to read ‘all natural 100% Wool Felt’. 

 

Felt you might ask? For those of us who do not dabble in wool projects, Felted Wool or Wool Felt might be a foreign fabric. So to quote American Felt and Craft:

“Felted starts the process as a wool or wool blend woven fabric. To make something “felt” (a verb) or “felted” (an adjective) implies washing a pre-woven, or knitted, wool or wool blend fabric in hot water to agitate it and force the fibers to lock making it impossible to untangle or loosen the fiber.”

 

This means your wool pressing mat is very dense. The denseness of the wool absorbs heat and traps it in the pressing pad. This allows the seam being pressed to receive heat from both sides at the same time. Not only does this increase your pressing efficiency, it also to creates a much flatter seam. One review claimed it cut her regular pressing time in half.  In addition the small give in the wool surface almost absorbs seams and stitches creating an extra flat press. Overall, using a wool pressing mat means a better, faster press.  

 

The other positive of the closely packed wool fibers is they hold your fabric in place while it it being pressed. This helps to maintain the fabric shape and avoid any stretching. For those us who sometimes ‘iron’ instead of ‘press’ (you know who you are), this is a plus. As quilters we are continually working with bias cuts, such as half square triangles or flying geese, these edges tend to stretch and can warp. A wool pressing mat uses it’s texture to hold them tightly in place stopping things from shifting. 

 

Although this does not apply to me, the wool pressing mat also works very well for embroidery. Whether it is hand or machine embroidery, often times after adding all of those stitches the fabric wants to pucker. Wool pressing mat to the rescue! Just like it flattens seams, it also flattens puckers out of embroidery.  

 

 

 

 

As for thickness, 1/2 inch seems to be the best option. There are vendors several offering felted wool anywhere from 1/8 an inch to a full inch. The 1/2 inch thickness allows enough room to trap the heat and created the double sided pressing effect, however it is also thick enough that the heat cannot make it to the surface below the pad.  This means your wool pressing pad can be used  anywhere, without danger of doing damage to the surface below it.  It could rest right beside your sewing machine!  

 

The beauty of the wool pressing mat is that due to it’s nature it can be used on any surface without worry of heat doing damage, as long as it is dry heat. If you are pressing with dry heat, no problems.  They can be used with or without steam, but keep in mind that the wool will absorb the steam with the heat. It is possible for the moisture from the steam to make it all the way through the surface below.

There is some debate as to whether steam will warp and distort the small pieces in blocks. Some people love steam, some people don’t.  Just keep in mind if you are using steam the moisture could injure the surface below your pressing pad, and the pad may need to be moved after use to dry both it and the surface. 

 

Several Quilter’s noted that their wool mat turned brown or scorched they used it. After speaking with the ladies that work in the shop, none of them have had this issue. They all press on high heat as you would normally, however, they only use water or Best Press with their wool pressing mat. They also said Best Press was used sparingly.  I can imagine that if starch was used on the mat, this could cause browning, as the starch would essentially ‘cook’ on the Matt. I also suspect that browning or scorching may be related to the quality of the material used in the product. 

 

Other small tidbits to keep in mind...

 

Corners.

Rounded corners are another attribute to be aware of when purchasing a mat. In one place I read the rounded corners decrease the likelihood that you catch things on it, and as a result decrease wear and tear.  In another place, it said that rounding the corners increased the cost and was not worth it. So to each their own!

 

Aroma.

Also noted by many people, when you press on the wool pad there is warmed wool aroma.  As with all smells, everyone has their own reaction, but be aware that this is normal. Lots of Quilters work with wool on a regular basis, so this does not bother them. Others cannot get past the smell. 

 

Pin-able

Unrelated to the iron, your pressing mat can also act as a pin-able design board. It can hold you blocks in place while you stitch them, and double as your ironing surface!

 

Size

Now, what size is the best option? The purpose of our wool pressing mat is to create nice, flat, crisp seams in our blocks. In my mind, this means that the pressing mat should be a about the size of the blocks that I regularly stitch.  Standard quilt block sizes range from 6” square to 15” square. 

Currently, Country Sampler is carrying 9x9”, 13x13” and 17X17” sizes. There are a wide variety of sizes out there, the important point here is that you choose a size that works for you. 

 

Personal preference and budget are big part of this decision. Wool is somewhat expensive, so the larger the mat the larger the cost. 

 If you want your entire quilt block to fit on the pressing mat then the larger size is for you.  If it is going in your camper, and small projects are on the agenda the smallest size is the best option.  

 

 

 

 

Deb spoke with the Wooly Felted Wonders folks at quilt market in the spring, and they said their most popular size is 13 1/2”x13 1/2”. They are one of two types of mats we have at the shop. The second is by Precision Quilting Tools, the brand carried by United notions. 

All of those things considered,  some Quilter’s want a surface large enough to do all their ironing on a wool pressing surface. So there are wool pressing pads that could cover a whole table! 

 

 

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So.....up to this point, I had never pressed on a wool mat. Thanks to Jody, who also works at the shop, I got the chance!

 

As many of you know our block of the month, Mineral Matrix, is currently on it’s 5th month. I am participating, but had not had the chance to starts my blocks yet, so this was the perfect opportunity. 

 

The first block includes 4 flying geese. So I decided to press two on my ironing board and two on the wool pressing mat. I used only dry heat and was surprised at the difference! The wool pressing mat set did appear much flatter. 

  

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The more intersecting seams I sewed, the more I felt I saw a difference in the two versions. The wool mat definitely pressed flatter.  I took photos, but I think it is difficult to see the difference in the photos, that is apparent in person. 

 

Another interesting note, sometimes when I press on my ironing board the texture of either the board or the iron is present in the fabric after I have finished pressing. The wool mat eliminated this problem. 

 

 

After assembling the finished  12 1/2 inch square block I gave it a good press. The pressing mat was 12” x24” so I did have to shift my block up and down to press the entire thing. This leads me to believe that the 13 1/2”x 13 1/2” is the most popular for a reason! Overall, I was happy with the results. Until, I realized that all  of my corner units were facing the wrong direction, and I was going to have to take the whole thing apart. 

 

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 After some quality time with my seam ripper, and a second attempt at assembly, I decided to try it with steam. Steam also worked wonderfully. Dry heat or steam heat, I did not notice any strange smells. 

 

 

Mineral Matrix is an all batik block of the month, so I have not had the opportunity to use it on printed fabric. Batiks are a tighter weave than printed fabric and have a tendency to be a little stiff. I feel they are a little more difficult when it comes to pressing, so if the mat works this well with batiks, it can only get better with prints.

 

I can see how it would be easily travel-able to a quilt retreat, or a friends house.  There are a variety of size options, so a small size could easily be used in your camper, right next to your sewing station, or take up little space in a small apartment or dorm room. 

 

The verdict is.......Wool pressing mats work pretty darn well! I might need one. 

 

 

Do you own a wool pressing mat? How did you feel about it? Did I miss anything important that people need to know about? Let us know in the comments!

 

Until next time! Happy sewing. 

 

Molly R-D

 

Christmas in August

Although it may seem a little early, Country Sampler is already planning Holiday projects and preparing for Christmas in August.

Our Christmas in August grand opening will be Saturday, August 4th, 2018! This means we will be closed on Friday, so we can get the shop ready. In the meantime, we wanted to give you a glimpse of the fabric lines we ordered, and the goodies that will be headed your way.

So, without further ado......

Already arrived at the shop, we have Once Upon a Memory by Holly Taylor and Swell by Urban Chiks.

 

Once Upon a Memory is a a traditional Holly Taylor line with dark reds and green, browns and creams and, of course holly! There are several multicolored paisleys and snowflakes in this line, and a panel in two colors ways.  As has been the case in previous years, Doug Leko has also written a book with all sorts of projects to go with the line. We have both red and cream panels in the shop, and are currently putting together kits for the Once Upon a Memory Quilt. 

 

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Swell is an adorable little retro line in shades of cream, red, pink, and green. It also has a jelly roll kit with a digitally printed extra large Santa! We will have pre-cuts and Swell Christmas Santa kits!  The kits arrived in the shop today and they are so much fun, they also have a bonus project which includes a table runner and a pillow!

 

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Arriving soon is...

 

Holly Woods by Three Sisters is blues and reds and creams, not traditional holiday colors, but still beautiful. Kits for the Blaze quilt will be coming together shortly. 

 

 

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White Christmas by Zen Chic is a black, grey, white and gold line. This modern line includes a Christmas Countdown Calendar which we have ordered in black. It also has a Christmas tree quilt called ‘Those Trees’, and a ‘Mega Star’ quilt made with a jelly roll. Both of these will be available in kit. 

 

 

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Winter Village by Basic Grey has a Nutcracker Theme! With adorable pine cones, snow men, and Christmas candy, this line is a must have.  We will be creating Trees and Tops Quilts kits out of this line!

 

 

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To accompany the holiday lines Basic Grey also has a new grunge fabric. This line is called Seeing Stars. Metallic stars overlay the grunge we love so much and it comes in ten colors!

 

Although not Christmas, we will also have two fall lines debuting on August 4th. 

 

Harvest Moon from Andover Fabrics is a combination of blacks, yellows and oranges, with just a hint of purple. The fabulous fabrics are more traditional in their print, but have a little bit of flair!

 

 

Country Road Flannels from Kansas Troubles are warm and snuggly and ready to be made into quilts!

 

 

There will be all sorts of other surprises as well, this is just a sneak peak! You will have to visit us on August 4th to see all the goodies.

 

Happy quilting!

 

Country Sampler Quilts

Two Blog Wonder

Welcome back to the second part of our One Block Wonder Blog
Series. This series was inspired by Linda’s One Block Wonder Classes. The first class covers fabric selection and preparation, cutting technique, and sewing the hexagons. For more info, check out the first part in the blog series: One Blog Wonder.

The second session in the class series is Overall Design and Transition with Cubes, and will be the focus of this blog post.

This class address overall layout, grouping of kaleidoscope blocks, use of cube blocks for transitional purposes. Hexagon cubes add a 3-demensional quality to the quilt to make it more interesting. This illusion is achieved by making the eye believe there is a light source. This light source must be consistent throughout the quilt, so the shading must be the same for each cube. As you arrange your hexagons, some transitions become awkward and cubes help to solve that problem.

Once all of the hexagons have been sewn, the next step is to divide the hexagons into color stacks. Each hexagon is evaluated for the overall color and sorted accordingly.This step does not sound difficult, however in practice I found it much harder than anticipated. I chose a Kaffe fabric that had many colors.

I had definite blue, purple, yellow and green piles. In addition there were a lot of combination piles.

 

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As a reference, here is my original fabric:

 

 

I had piles of hexagons everywhere! After re- reading my book, I learned that all my additional smaller color piles will provide transitions from one color area to another.

After sorting by color, I set out on my own to create a design and a layout that I was happy about. After three failed attempts, I gave up and waited for the second session class. I NEEDED Linda.

Several wonderful women and I attended Linda’s second class in the series last week on Sunday, April 8th. We strung up our design walls in Country Samplers’ classroom and pulled out our color coded hexagons.

Starting with our favorite color, we added all of that pile to the design wall somewhere around the middle. This does not necessarily mean it will stay there, as was my case, but it is a good jumping off point. This is when it starts to get hard. As you progressively add more piles of hexagons, things shift and change. Hexagons with similar colors and intensities belong next to one another. In addition to color, the shape of the design in the fabric also helps lead you to it’s proper placement.

I found this process was a bit frustrating for me. It took some confusion, Linda and a class of helpful ladies for the beginnings of my quilt to take shape.

After a bit of work, I felt like I was finally beginning to see the hexagons as they flow into and out of one another. Looking at them individually is necessary for sorting into color stacks, but you have to make the adjustment to seeing them as groupings in order to create flow throughout the final quilt. Now that I have reflected on the process, I think this is what may have caused my initial frustration. To put it another way, I could not see the forrest from the trees.

 

 

Some groups of hexagons were easy to place, others involved lots of sorting, stewing, a snack, and an extra set of eyes. It was really nice to have the rest of the class as moral support. When one of us started to go cross eyed looking at our own project, we took a break and acted a a reference for each other.

It is a good idea to keep in mind through out this process the overall size and shape of your quilt. It is pretty easy to get carried away coordinated in hexagons, without regard to creating a usable quilt size or shape. At one point during class, my quilt expanded down off of my design wall. I had to shift every hexagon block up two spaces in order to continue working on my quilt top. The picture above shows my quilt before the shift!

Taking a giant step back, and viewing the project from farther away helped to show areas that did not flow, or hexagons that stuck out. If one of them is in the wrong place, it does not blend and ‘pops’ out of the overall design. Linda also provided a keyhole viewer which gave us a different perspective and point of reference. We also found that taking a picture, and viewing the photo instead of the actual quilt provided good feedback.

The word of the day was ‘transitions’. In the final quilt, the goal is for all of your hexagons to transition and flow from one color and design to another, without having any particular hexagon stick out.

The final portion of class discussed cubes. As you arrange your hexagons, some transitions become awkward and cubes help to solve that problem. Cube assembly, and placement of the light, medium and dark fabric are what give it a three dimensional look. These elements are also what allow the cube to bridge the gap in the areas of the quilt that cause trouble.

 

 

You can see in this example from the book how strategically placed cubes can enhance the overall design.

We found that the sorting and organizing process took much longer than planned! We brought our sewing machines and coordinating fabric with the idea that we would be able to sew cubes, and assemble some of our quilt. That was not the case! We actually ended up staying past the end of class and still feeling as if we could have used more time.

Lynne managed to finish her layout and shop for border fabric. She might be the closest to having a finished project.

 

 

At the end of the day, we all had a much better idea of how to finish out quilt, but no one did any sewing! Despite that fact, we still had some major accomplishments.

Here is Cindy’s:

 

 

And Peggy’s:

 

 

My quilt came home and immediately went back up on my design wall. It was revisited later that evening, and almost everyday of this past week. Having time to think about it, and rearrange was very helpful. My husband, Josh, also acted as moral support since I no longer had my classmates. He is surprisingly good at recognizing patterns. He also sees the big picture, where sometimes I see individual blocks.

After a little over a week of rearranging, there are several things that need to be considered. These were discussed in the second class, but with the task of organizing feeling a bit overwhelming, I did not get the chance to contemplate them then.

Eventually you begin to use all of your hexagons, Inevitably there are some empty spaces on your quilt. Since each hexagon is cut from 6 repeats, there is no option to ‘just make an additional hexagon’. This means finding alternative solutions.

 

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These empty spaces can be filled in many different ways. The beauty of this class is that there are no right or wrong layouts, no right or wrong decisions. You can do whatever makes your heart happy!

You can modify your layout until there are no holes in your quilt.

In addition to spaces in the quilt, there are still edge slots that need to be filled. Filling in the side slots can be accomplished by either adding a half hexagon that coordinates with the fabric in that location, or removing half of a hexagon.

Cubes can act as spacers, and help bridge the gap from one color/design to another.

I really like the idea of cutting hexagons from my original fabric. That way there are glimpses of the original design through out the quilt top. Can you find them?

 

 

The possibilities are endless!

As hexagons were sorted and combined I found that I have several very unique hexagons. There were very interesting to look at, but do not fit into any category, and stick out when placed in the quilt top. Of course, two of these were my most favorite!

 

 

Perhaps they will go into a border? Or maybe a backing?!? Only time will tell.

I am sorry to say that I do not have a finished project to show you. I am very close to having my final hexagon layout, but I have not yet finalized my design decisions on borders, my extra hexagons or backing. There are so many fantastic things that you can do to create a unique quilt, it is taking a bit of time to think and sort out ideas.

Here is my current quilt top:

 

 

Deb, one of the other women in the class designed her whole quilt around one repeat of
her fabric! IT IS BEAUTIFUL! Being able to see a full repeat of the original fabric beside all of her hexagons is quite stunning. It also gives the viewer perspective.

 

 

Here are a couple of other interesting layouts show in the book that goes along with the class. It is worth taking a peek next time you are in the shop!

 

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Hopefully in the near future, I will have a follow up post for you with the finished project. Also, to Peggy, Deb, Lynne and Cindy- thank you for such a fun class! If any of you would be willing to share your final quilt designs, I am sure people would love to see them!

Until then, Happy Stitching!

Molly and Country Sampler